[Coco] I've killed my CoCo3

[Steve Strowbridge]

Barry it looks like you are one of the people here who are breaking
threads, I've noticed this trend recently, you're the first reply to this
topic that appears as a new topic, what/how are you consuming these
messages and replying to them?  I just use my gmail web interface to read
and respond, for example.



Steve Strowbridge, aka
The Original Gamer Stevie Strow
ogStevieStrow at gmail.com

Website:  http://ogsteviestrow.com
Merchandise:  http://8bit256.com
All things CoCo:  http://imacoconut.com
CoCoTALK!  http://cocotalk.live



On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 7:45 AM, Barry Nelson <
barry.nelson at amobiledevice.com> wrote:

> > Paul Shoemaker
> > Thu Oct 19 07:13:22 EDT 2017
> >
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > Yesterday evening I decided to replace the 6809 with a 6309 in my CoCo
> 3.  Although I am still an amateur with a soldering iron, I've been
> practicing and recently completed this same process on one of my CoCo 2
> systems where I clipped out the 6809, desoldered the remaining pins, and
> soldered in a socket.  However, when I tried this same approach on my CoCo
> 3, as soon as I started using solder wick, I noticed some of the solder
> pads began to come off.  I don't think I was using excessive heat (same
> iron, same heat settings as before).  Even the traces on the board began to
> lift up.  It became clear to me after this happened to a few pads that I
> had destroyed the board.
> >
> > If anything I was more gentle with the CoCo 3 board than I was with the
> CoCo 2 board before.  It was evident that the CoCo3 board was more
> "weathered" than any of my other systems...  more dust and dirt inside, a
> lot of oxidation on the RF modulator box, etc.  It may be that this CoCo 3
> spent many years in a garage or shed prior to me rescuing it from eBay last
> year.
> >
> > Any advice on how to avoid from happening again this in the future?
> >
> > -Paul
> First I will quote from the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy:
> Don’t Panic
>
> It is still possible you may be able to repair the board. I have
> previously been successful at super gluing down lifted traces. You can also
> run jumper wires to repair the open connections. It won’t look pretty, but
> with some patience it should work. I do recommend getting a desoldering
> iron if there are more pins to be removed before proceeding. When you run
> jumpers, I suggest more or less following the path of the PC board trace
> you are repairing, and hot gluing them to the PC board so they don’t move
> around. I repaired an Amiga 2000 mother board that had extensive damage
> from corrosion this way, and it has been working ever since for several
> years now after the repairs. Refer to the schematic to confirm where the
> jumpers need to go, and check continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
>
>
>
>
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