[Coco] I've killed my CoCo3

[Barry Nelson]

> Paul Shoemaker
> Thu Oct 19 07:13:22 EDT 2017
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Yesterday evening I decided to replace the 6809 with a 6309 in my CoCo 3.  Although I am still an amateur with a soldering iron, I've been practicing and recently completed this same process on one of my CoCo 2 systems where I clipped out the 6809, desoldered the remaining pins, and soldered in a socket.  However, when I tried this same approach on my CoCo 3, as soon as I started using solder wick, I noticed some of the solder pads began to come off.  I don't think I was using excessive heat (same iron, same heat settings as before).  Even the traces on the board began to lift up.  It became clear to me after this happened to a few pads that I had destroyed the board.
> 
> If anything I was more gentle with the CoCo 3 board than I was with the CoCo 2 board before.  It was evident that the CoCo3 board was more "weathered" than any of my other systems...  more dust and dirt inside, a lot of oxidation on the RF modulator box, etc.  It may be that this CoCo 3 spent many years in a garage or shed prior to me rescuing it from eBay last year.
> 
> Any advice on how to avoid from happening again this in the future?  
> 
> -Paul
First I will quote from the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy:
Don’t Panic

It is still possible you may be able to repair the board. I have previously been successful at super gluing down lifted traces. You can also run jumper wires to repair the open connections. It won’t look pretty, but with some patience it should work. I do recommend getting a desoldering iron if there are more pins to be removed before proceeding. When you run jumpers, I suggest more or less following the path of the PC board trace you are repairing, and hot gluing them to the PC board so they don’t move around. I repaired an Amiga 2000 mother board that had extensive damage from corrosion this way, and it has been working ever since for several years now after the repairs. Refer to the schematic to confirm where the jumpers need to go, and check continuity with a volt/ohm meter.