[Coco] I've killed my CoCo3

[camillus gmail]

HI Ian,

If I can off any assistance, I would like to have a go to repair your coco. I love to do those things...

I do this for any fee you want to offer me, but you do have to send the board to me, and take the cost of shipping.

Let me know what you decide.

cb

On 10/19/2017 7:09:50 AM, Ian Norley <ian.norley at gmail.com> wrote:
I wouldn't consider it a lost cause. You used to be able to get pads and
patch up traces and it's even possible to make your own. At the least you
could use wire wrap wire (carefully) to get things going. It might look a
bit crappy depending on how well you can finesse it but I don't think it
would suffer 'too' much electrically at the speed it's running.

On 19 October 2017 at 23:02, Steve Strowbridge
wrote:

> Barry it looks like you are one of the people here who are breaking
> threads, I've noticed this trend recently, you're the first reply to this
> topic that appears as a new topic, what/how are you consuming these
> messages and replying to them? I just use my gmail web interface to read
> and respond, for example.
>
>
>
> Steve Strowbridge, aka
> The Original Gamer Stevie Strow
> ogStevieStrow at gmail.com
>
> Website: http://ogsteviestrow.com
> Merchandise: http://8bit256.com
> All things CoCo: http://imacoconut.com
> CoCoTALK! http://cocotalk.live
>
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 7:45 AM, Barry Nelson
> barry.nelson at amobiledevice.com> wrote:
>
> > > Paul Shoemaker
> > > Thu Oct 19 07:13:22 EDT 2017
> > >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > Yesterday evening I decided to replace the 6809 with a 6309 in my CoCo
> > 3. Although I am still an amateur with a soldering iron, I've been
> > practicing and recently completed this same process on one of my CoCo 2
> > systems where I clipped out the 6809, desoldered the remaining pins, and
> > soldered in a socket. However, when I tried this same approach on my
> CoCo
> > 3, as soon as I started using solder wick, I noticed some of the solder
> > pads began to come off. I don't think I was using excessive heat (same
> > iron, same heat settings as before). Even the traces on the board began
> to
> > lift up. It became clear to me after this happened to a few pads that I
> > had destroyed the board.
> > >
> > > If anything I was more gentle with the CoCo 3 board than I was with the
> > CoCo 2 board before. It was evident that the CoCo3 board was more
> > "weathered" than any of my other systems... more dust and dirt inside, a
> > lot of oxidation on the RF modulator box, etc. It may be that this CoCo
> 3
> > spent many years in a garage or shed prior to me rescuing it from eBay
> last
> > year.
> > >
> > > Any advice on how to avoid from happening again this in the future?
> > >
> > > -Paul
> > First I will quote from the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy:
> > Don’t Panic
> >
> > It is still possible you may be able to repair the board. I have
> > previously been successful at super gluing down lifted traces. You can
> also
> > run jumper wires to repair the open connections. It won’t look pretty,
> but
> > with some patience it should work. I do recommend getting a desoldering
> > iron if there are more pins to be removed before proceeding. When you run
> > jumpers, I suggest more or less following the path of the PC board trace
> > you are repairing, and hot gluing them to the PC board so they don’t move
> > around. I repaired an Amiga 2000 mother board that had extensive damage
> > from corrosion this way, and it has been working ever since for several
> > years now after the repairs. Refer to the schematic to confirm where the
> > jumpers need to go, and check continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> > Coco at maltedmedia.com
> > https://pairlist5.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/coco
> >
>
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