[Coco] I've killed my CoCo3

[Zippster]

Well now you’ve just got me intrigued Paul.  I may have to take pictures.  :)

- Ed


> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Paul Shoemaker <paulfe3 at swbell.net> wrote:
> 
> Many thanks to all you guys for the advice, insight and offers of help!  I took Ed up on his offer, which he may regret when I sees what I have in store for him.  What a fantastic CoCo community we have here!
> 
> -Paul
> 
>      From: dwight.bazinet <dwight.bazinet at gmail.com>
> To: CoCoList for Color Computer Enthusiasts <coco at maltedmedia.com> 
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2017 9:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Coco] I've killed my CoCo3
> 
> Hi Ed,
> 
> I used to have a full pace kit available to me n my work lab.  I much
> prefered the vacuum desoldering tool (not the plunger, but the vacuum with
> the solder filter).  I wouldn't even clip the pins, it would do that good a
> job cleaning them up.  I used just a small amount of liquid flux prior to
> heat, and then it would melt right away an hen vacuum, which also drew away
> the flux.
> 
> However, I cn't afford a full Pace kit at home.  I haven't ot one of the
> cheaper stations because I don't know how well they work, so I use a
> plunger.  If I was going to do a lot of work I would get sone liquid flux.
> 
> Do you prefer braid over a proper vacuum tool?
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 19, 2017 9:39 AM, "Zippster" <zippster278 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Paul,
>> 
>> I’m sorry it went that way.  I still consider the clip and and desoldering
>> braid the safest way,
>> but it is pretty important to have a soldering station where you can
>> control the temp, and using
>> a proper tip for the iron.  A ‘drag soldering’ type tip, basically a
>> straight cylinder with the end cut
>> at an angle is best (for applying heat to the braid), a chisel tip
>> probably second best.  Having a
>> flat surface at the tip allows for faster more accurate heat transfer to
>> the pad and solder without
>> excessively heating the board material.  I find the common round pencil
>> style tips to be one of the least
>> suitable for anything.  I use a chisel or drag type for everything.  Of
>> course that’s just my opinion and
>> everyone has their own way of doing things.
>> 
>> All that said, it’s possible the board was degraded or just not up to par
>> in some way which
>> helped it fall apart on you.  It can happen.
>> 
>> If you want, you can send the board to me, I’m certain I can patch it up
>> for you.  No charge, just
>> take care of the shipping.  Unless someone has a motherboard with a dead
>> GIME out there.
>> 
>> - Ed
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:13 AM, Paul Shoemaker <paulfe3 at swbell.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> 
>>> Yesterday evening I decided to replace the 6809 with a 6309 in my CoCo
>> 3.  Although I am still an amateur with a soldering iron, I've been
>> practicing and recently completed this same process on one of my CoCo 2
>> systems where I clipped out the 6809, desoldered the remaining pins, and
>> soldered in a socket.  However, when I tried this same approach on my CoCo
>> 3, as soon as I started using solder wick, I noticed some of the solder
>> pads began to come off.  I don't think I was using excessive heat (same
>> iron, same heat settings as before).  Even the traces on the board began to
>> lift up.  It became clear to me after this happened to a few pads that I
>> had destroyed the board.
>>> 
>>> If anything I was more gentle with the CoCo 3 board than I was with the
>> CoCo 2 board before.  It was evident that the CoCo3 board was more
>> "weathered" than any of my other systems...  more dust and dirt inside, a
>> lot of oxidation on the RF modulator box, etc.  It may be that this CoCo 3
>> spent many years in a garage or shed prior to me rescuing it from eBay last
>> year.
>>> 
>>> Any advice on how to avoid from happening again this in the future?
>>> 
>>> -Paul
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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